Las mejores manzanillas, según Sarah Jane Evans 

Este singular jerez seco puede ser ligero y fresco o contundente y lleno de carácter, dice Sarah Jane Evans que recomienda en la revista Decanter sus marcas favoritas en uno y otro estilo y ofrece consejos para almacenarlas y servirlas. La master of wine muestra su entusiasmo por los vinos intensos y punzantes (appetising astringency) y se queja de que en el mercado hay mucha manzanilla de color y sabor acuosos. “Son vinos inofensivos -dice- a los que se les ha filtrado el carácter y el color. Un blanco ligero y veraniego destinado a atraer a nuevos bebedores. Al final, sin embargo, esas personas habrán elegido sauvignon blanc, o incluso pinot grigio. Cualquier cosa con un poco más de sabor”. 

Evans’s top 18 manzanilla picks

Lustau, Almacenista Cuevas Jurado, Manzanilla, Pasada, Jerez
Aromatic, yeasty, proud and foursquare, with freshness and plenty of life. The higher alcohol isn’t apparent on the palate, but adds to its savoury power.

Equipo Navazos, La Bota 90, Manzanilla, Pasada, Jerez, Spain
Glorious toasty aromatics promise a wine of real distinction. So it proves: powerful, with treacle, bitter orange and a spicy finish. One to spend time…

Hijos de Rainera Pérez Marín, La Guita En Rama, Manzanilla
Smoke and brioche aromas. Elegant palate with subtle stony, iodine notes. Squeaky clean, with a salty delicacy.

Valdespino, Deliciosa, Manzanilla, Jerez, Spain
About five to six years old, from La Guita bodega. Bright astringency and vivid intensity, with a long, refreshing finish. Not subtle, or washed out;…

Bodegas Callejuela, Añina, Manzanilla, Jerez, Spain, 2015
Aged under flor, but not in a solera. The only vintage wine in this tasting, part of a growing category. Single vineyard, from the Blanco…

Rodriguez La-Cave, Barbiana, Manzanilla, Jerez, Spain
Rodríguez La-Cave merged with Delgado Zuleta in the 1970s. Many La-Cave brands disappeared, but three remain: Goya, Quo Vadis and Barbiana. This is bright gold,…

Delgado Zuleta, La Goya, Manzanilla, Jerez, Spain
Smoky, almond aromas. In the mouth a fresh, savoury classic. Has all the complexity of many finos, but with the freshness and mid-weight of Sanlúcar.

Equipo Navazos, I Think En Rama, Manzanilla, Jerez, Spain
The palate is youthful and straightforward, but it develops complex undertones of honey, citrus and saline.

Sánchez Ayala, Gabriela Oro En Rama, Manzanilla, Jerez
Carries its seven years of maturity lightly, with finesse. Single vineyard, from Balbaína Alta. Delicate and elegant palate, lightly saline, with walnut notes.

Yuste, La Kika Pasada En Rama, Manzanilla, Jerez, Spain
Spot-on. Refreshing, bright. Not sure I’d know it’s en rama, but it has fine roasted characters and elegance.

Bodegas Barbadillo, Nave Trinidad En Rama, Manzanilla, Jerez
Designed to appeal to younger drinkers, less familiar with Sherry’s arcane arts. From the cool Trinidad cellar. Aromatic: grassiness, citrus peel. Silky entry, bright astringency,…

Bodegas Callejuela, Manzanilla, Jerez, Spain
Classic mature wine from the Blanco brothers. Light gold colour with smoky notes. Shows its seven years. The palate is distinctly savoury, full bodied and…

Bodegas Hidalgo, La Gitana En Rama, Manzanilla, Jerez, Spain
A favourite: single-vineyard Finca Pastrana, 10 or more years old; lively, likeable, fresh pasada. Roasted nuts, bitter-orange marmalade, an elegant saline finish.

La Cigarrera, Manzanilla, Jerez, Spain
Expressive, not subtle, with camomile and a suggestion of honey and smoke on the nose. Mouthfilling, powerful, with astringency and salty mineral notes.

Emilio Lustau, Papirusa Solera Reserva, Manzanilla
This is a classic five year old: young, lively palate with fennel and mineral notes. Sings of the seaside.

Fernando de Castilla, Classic, Manzanilla, Jerez, Spain
This may not be up there with the Antique range, which has won DWWA trophies, but it has attractive linearity, a mineral character and a…

Herederos de Argüeso, Las Medallas, Manzanilla, Jerez, Spain
Classic aromas: grassy, with dried herbs and almonds. Silky entry, with a lift of freshness. Reliable and straightforward, the essence of a young manzanilla.

Waitrose, No 1 El Benito, Manzanilla, Pasada, Jerez, Spain
Unsurprisingly, the only high-street wine here is from Waitrose, the result of its partnership with Lustau. Bold style, penetrating astringency. Match with jamón or any…
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