20 vinos que reviven y restauran, según The New York Times

Si estás cansado de beber lo mismo de siempre Eric Asimov te sugiere, desde las páginas del diario The New York Times, probar su selección de 20 vinos de nueve países que se venden en Estados Unidos por debajo de 20 dólares (17 euros) y  que tienen una buena relación calidad-precio.

Vivimos tiempos difíciles, señala, con un cóctel diario de pandemia, políticas, protestas y desastres naturales. “La buena comida, el buen vino y una conversación interesante parecen tan necesarios para pasar el 2020 como libros fascinantes, espectáculos que merezcan la pena y paseos entre los árboles. Alivian, curan y restauran”. 

La buena noticia, dice, es que nunca ha habido mejor momento para escapar de la rutina. En todo el mundo se están produciendo grandes vinos. Asimov califica a los elegidos de “ interesantes, distintivos, incluso provocativos, lo que significa que no todos serán del gusto de todos”. Txakoli, rioja, manzanilla y tintilla de rota son los cuatro representantes de nuestro país incluídos en la relación:

  • Roca Altxerri Getariako Txakolina Camino 2019 

This lightly sparkling wine, made entirely of the local hondarrabi zuri grape, comes from Basque Country in Spain. It’s delicate but intense, crisp and bracing. As you drink it, you can almost feel the stiff salt breeze blowing in off the Atlantic. It’s just the thing for oysters, clams and other light seafood preparations, or maybe for an aperitif. 

  • Bodegas Hermanos Peciña Rioja Blanco Señorío de P. Peciña 2018 

I remember the first time I tried a traditionally made white Rioja, from the producer R. López de Heredia. It was thrilling. I had never had a wine like it before, made with the viura grape and aged in barrels of American oak. Demand for López de Heredia has gone up, as have prices. Nonetheless, few Rioja producers make old-school whites. Hermanos Peciña is one of them. This lovely wine is made of organically grown viura, and offers rich, spicy, coconut-inflected, earthy apple flavors. It’s a lovely entry-level wine, not aged nearly as long as a López de Heredia. It will be delicious with fish or poultry in creamy sauces. 

  • Bodegas Yuste Aurora Manzanilla NV 500 milliliters 

All seasons are sherry seasons. That goes especially for manzanilla, which by reputation is the lightest, most delicate form of fino sherry. But this example, from Bodegas Yuste, does not fit the stereotype of manzanilla as fragile. It’s amber-colored, scented with sea brine, almonds and chamomile, and richer and more robust than the typical manzanilla. It’s more fino weight, which makes it particularly appropriate for colder weather. It’s wonderful, just right for typical Spanish bar treats like ham or Marcona almonds, and would make an excellent aperitif. 

  • Compañía de Vinos del Atlántico Vara y Pulgar Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz Tintilla 2015

I wrote about the 2014 vintage of this wine last year, and I very much wanted to try it again because it was so unusual. It comes from the Cádiz region of Andalusia in southern Spain, which is far better known for its sherries than for red wines. This is made of the tintilla grape, known elsewhere in Spain as graciano, which is often used in Rioja blends but only occasionally bottled as a varietal wine. The fruit flavors in the 2015 are a little darker than in the ’14, the tannins a bit more apparent, but this nonetheless is a fresh and original wine that would go well with lamb or sausages.
Más información: https://www.nytimes.com
Foto: Caroline Attwood (Unsplash)